Famous.Fierce.Feisty - Denise Vasi

Image courtesy of Essence.com

Denise Vasi is a STUNNING woman! She's one of my favorite models, and I had no idea she was also an actress (currently plays the role of Randi Morgan on All My Children).

I adore her curly hair! The color is great, and blends effortlessly with her skin's tone and piercing sky blue eyes.

She's Dominican and Greek. Her hair falls somewhere within the 3 range (I'm not good at hair typing, so go here for more info). Like many models, she alternates her look between her natural texture and straightened, but she's a definite curly girl!

Don't ya just love the caption on that last one ;)

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WEEKLY WORD

"Distracted"

Thou shalt have no other gods before me.

-Exodus 20:3

I have been EXTREMELY busy this past week, and I have let my busy-ness crowd out my worship time. I know, I know--that's terrible. The real problem is that I wouldn't be this busy if it wasn't for the many blessings that God has bestowed upon me.

I have been running around trying to get things ready for my graduation, and I've forgotten to include God in my party planning, even though He's solely the reason I got into school and finished. I also had a phone interview on Thursday for an internship this summer, and it went really well. I thanked God for being with me, but I feel like He deserved more. And then this weekend I went to the beach, and I barely completed half of my devotional. I've put everything in my life ahead of God this week, but I've realized it and won't continue this into the week upcoming.

God is to be first in our lives! That is the point of the commandment: thou shalt have no other gods before me. We should idolize nothing in our lives before God. If I can find the time to cowash, deep treat, moisturize, seal, and give myself a scalp treatment, then I can definitely find the time to say my prayers, read my Bible, have my devotion, and intercede on another person's behalf. I find the time to talk to friends on the phone, so I should be sure to keep in contact with the Lord, who is my Dearest Friend. I find time to blog to my heart's content, so I should definitely keep up with my prayer journal and sharing the gospel as much as I share my experiences in hair and fashion.

God wants us to have hobbies and interests, keep in contact with family and friends, have fun weekend trips, and take care of our errands. But none of those things should come before our relationship with Him. If you ignored God this past week, as I did, then let's be sure to put Him first in the new week ahead.

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WEEKLY WORD

"From Start to Finish"

Being confident of this very thing, that He who has begun a good work in you will complete it until the day of Jesus Christ.

-Philippians 1:6

When Paul wrote the above text in his letter to the Philippians, it was within the context of one's spiritual walk: God will be there to help us finish the "good work," He started in us, which is our Christian journey that is initiated by the conviction we feel from the Holy Spirit. However, because God's Word is multidimensional, we can also be confident that God will finish any good work He has started in our lives.

On Friday I presented my final Master's project. And it went very well. But I shouldn't have been surprised because of the promise given in this text. I know for a fact that God brought me to the University of Florida, a second time, to complete this Master of Public Health degree. Because of extenuating circumstances on my part, my undergraduate GPA was nowhere near the necessary 3.0 to get into grad school (no seriously, nowhere near it). Sometimes it felt like I was wasting my time filling out applications and gathering letters of recommendation. But I had prayed about getting into school, and I knew that God's hand was in it. There's no other way for me to explain how I was accepted into UF, no other way to explain how my GPA now is a comfortable 3.7 when I was never able to get above a 3.0 during my entire undergraduate career.

God continues to show me He's going to finish what He's started. Just a few weeks ago, I applied for a great internship in Washington, DC for this summer. When I discovered the internship though, I had only 4 days until the deadline...that's it! Four days in which to gather 3 letters of rec, a resume, a writing sample, and a personal statement. But I felt that God was telling me to apply, so I knew He must have had some way that He was going to work this out. I was able to secure two letters and sent in all of my information by the postmark date. I asked my supervisor at work at work to send in my third letter and he agreed. It seemed like God was really going to get this done!

I went on vacation to celebrate my birthday, and when I came back to work, my supervisor told me that he had not been able to send my letter of recommendation!!! At this point, it was about 2 weeks after the deadline, and I was really upset. I sent an email to the internship, but they never answered back. I was pretty sure that my chances for getting the internship were a big fat zero, but on Easter weekend I received an email from the internship saying that I'd been chosen as a finalist!!!! Even with only two letters of recommendation, my application caught the eye of the Commission on Accreditation of Rehabilitation Facilities, and I have my phone interview this Thursday. I'm not worried--in fact, I'm claiming the victory right now in faith. God has brought me too far, and I know He started this application process, and I'm certain He'll finish it with a successful interview!

I believe God does finish what He starts in us, but I'm not gonna lie: sometimes it's hard for me to be confident of that when external factors make it impossible to actually see the finish line. But that's why we need faith [Hebrews 11:1]. Let's have faith that God will actually keep his promise to finish the good work He has begun or is about to begin in each of us. And let's press on toward the mark [Philippians 3:14], making sure that we keep up our end of the deal and strive towards the finish line in faith.

Have a Blessed Week!

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ABCs of Hair Care [Consistency is Key]

Hope you had a blessed Easter weekend, and Happy Easter Monday to my Caribbean feisties, especially you yardies :D

J and I have been MIA (we apologize), but we were out being feisty for Jesus (lol...). Now we're back, and I'm really excited about today's post.

We've come really far with the ABCs! The last one is Consistency. Once you have formed a good solid regimen, it's important to be consistent with it! Your hair will show you results of taking care of it once you follow your hair care regimen on a daily basis.

Don't fret if you haven't developed your regimen yet. That may actually take months to do! This is because you have to wait a while with products before you can truly see results from them. For example, I was all ready to get rid of my Biolage deep conditioner after 2 weeks because it "wasn't doing anything" for my hair. But then I used it again on Wednesday (my 4th consistent week using it) and I think my hair is finally showing me the results I was looking for.

And even though I have a pretty solid regimen, I do still experiement with other things, partly because I'm a "product junkie" (someone who is addicted to buying hair crap), and partly because it does take a degree of experimentation to find out what really works for your hair. Another issue with developing a regimen is that after using the same products for a long time, your hair may get used to them. One way to combat this is to clarify your hair monthly. But if you do that and your curls aren't poppin' like they were when you first started using that shampoo or conditioner or moisturizer, try something new!

Back to consistency...

Once you've gathered together your little hair product army, you should use them regularly in order to see results. I've actually challenged myself to use my current regimen for 6 months without any changes (the product junkie in me is itching to try this new conditioner I bought the other day though...I really dunno if I'm gonna make it!!!!!). In addition, you should also document your progress. The following are just some suggestions of ways to help yourself stay consistent:

1. Use Pictures
I love to take pictures of myself, so this one was a no brainer for me :) I've been taking pictures of my hair journey since the end of November 2008, and it really has kept me motivated to keep taking good care of my hair. When I can see the difference in shine, length, and overall health, it makes me feel like I'm on the right track, and it encourages me to continue doing all this work! Trust me, if I didn't have my pictures to show me results, I don't think I'd take the time to moisturize and seal twice a day (haha). I like to share my results with other feisties, so my photo album is posted here

2. Keep a Hair Diary
Most of us know how to keep a diary (Sidenote: I kept one daily from the time I was in 6th grade until I was a freshman in college...it's fun to look back at that stuff!). Keeping a diary of your hair journey will help you to keep better track of how products are affecting your hair. I like to have my pictures and diary entries in the same spot, so I made a PowerPoint presentation of my hair care. I use one slide for each day, and I can put pics on there easily. Every time I do my hair, I write down what I did, what I used, for how long I used it, and then I write down the results--how my hair feels, smells, how it shines, how strong it is/isn't. This way if my hair starts doing something unexpected, like break and split, or if it starts growing and retaining more length, I have a better idea of what products were hurting and/or helping my hair, and I know what to get rid of.

3. Have a Goal
When you have something to work towards, you're more likely to actively stick to a regimen. Give yourself a goal AND a time frame within which to accomplish that goal. For example, my goal is to reach APL (arm-pit length) by the end of December 2009. I have a concrete goal, and I've given myself a date by which it needs to be accomplished. My goal is reasonable too, which is also important--trying to reach an unrealistic goal is discouraging, and ends up doing more harm than good. Your goal will be a great motivator in helping you keep up your consistency.

4. Replenish Your Stash
You don't want to run out of anything that has been working in your hair. If you don't have it in the house, it's very difficult to maintain consistent use. I buy the large sizes of things I really like to use, like EVCO, EVOO, shea butter, honey and Hello Hydration. I know that I'm not gonna wake up one morning and they're gonna stop working, so I make sure that they're always in the house. Every time I get paid, even if I haven't run out yet, I make sure to pick up the oils and the conditioner because I use them A LOT and in large quantities. I also buy my moisturizers in twos if I have the money for it--this way if I'm ever a little short on cash and can't re-up, I have a back-up supply.

5. Talk to Other People
The same way sharing your testimony with other people and listening to their's helps you stay focused on your spiritual journey, talking to other natural ladies is great encouragement for sticking to a regimen. Read other hair blogs (we have a list of the ones we follow over on the right). Join hair care forums (I really love all the information on longhaircareforum.com). And make friends on sites like Fotki (I just started, and I'm amazed by all the natural ladies on their who have such healthy, wonderful hair!!!). You can always email me or J, and we love to answer questions =)

Once you're consistent in your journey, you'll see really positive results. Just remember that with consistency also comes PATIENCE. One thing I had to learn when starting on my journey was that a lot of these women on other blogs have been taking superb care of their hair and sticking to a consistent regimen sometimes for years! I've only been on this kick for 5 months, so I can't expect to have their length or expertise. I need to be patient with my hair and with finding out how best to take care of it.

We're done with the introduction of the ABCs of hair care, but they never really go away. As long as you're natural, you have to continue to assess your strands, build your regimen, and remain consistent with your hair care. We'll definitely be revisiting these topics in posts to come.

Do you have any issues with consistency, or any other suggestions on how to stay consistent with your hair care regimen? Any hair goals or challenges for this year? Share, share, share!!!

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ABCs of Hair Care [Build Your Regimen, Part 2]

Hola Feisties!

We went over the basics of regimen-building last post, and I thought today I could bring things full circle by talking about MY REGIMEN! It's taken me a couple months to build a regimen that works for me, and I've had to try different products and give them a chance to work. When I see results I like, I add the products to my regimen. If I don't, I start over with something new. It helps A LOT that I already know what's wrong with my hair--when I go looking for products, I already know what I need them to do.

My regimen is fairly simple. I don't use a lot of products (at least I don't think I do), and I use a lot of things you can find in your kitchen cabinets.

Pre-poo: The night before I wash my hair (it usually ends up being a Wednesday night), I give myself a scalp treatment. I massage my scalp with a mixture of peppermint, tea tree, and EVOO (I'm also going to add rosemary, which is a growth agent!) Then I generously apply EVCO to my hair in sections, but I don't comb it or anything (because it's dry). I smooth my hair in a downward fashion as I apply the oil to my hair and then braid each section once I'm finished. Then I wrap my hair in Saran wrap, cover with a shower cap and my satin bonnet, and go to sleep.

Wash (Shampoo, Conditioner, DT): I shampoo the morning after I pre-poo (Thursday morning). I use Organix Tea Tree or Coconut Milk if I need a little protein. If I'm clarifying, I'll put a little baking soda in my shampoo. For the past 3 weeks, I've been giving myself a weekly henna treatment (we'll talk all about henna later :-) Because you shouldn't combine protein and henna, I use Organix Pomegranate shampoo on henna wash days (it doesn't have protein in it). I only shampoo once, and I only shampoo my hair in braids (the same braids from my pre-poo). I apply shampoo to the base of the braids, massage it in, and then rinse the shampoo out of the braids until the water runs clear and there's no soap left. Because I pre-poo'd the night before, my hair is usually really soft after I shampoo.

I condition my hair with Herbal Essences Hello Hydration or Long-term Relationship. Both conditioners are really moisturizing (I especially love Hello Hydration), and they're also really slippery, which is PERFECT for detangling. I detangle one braid at a time. First I apply conditioner to the braid, and make sure it's all the way from root to ends. Then I undo the braid and use my fingers to get the major tangles out. Once I know there are no huge tangles, I use my Jilbere shower comb to really detangle. I start and then ends, and work my way up to the root. When my comb can go through my hair without reaching any tangles, I braid up that section. I do this for every braid. Once all my braids have been detangled, I rinse out the conditioner, and I comb through each braid again for good measure. Once the conditioner is out of my hair, I braid the sections again.
I give myself a moisturizing DT after every wash. I apply the DT to each braid, comb it through, and re-braid. I tried using Deva One Conditoner as a DT, but it didn't really make my hair feel moisturized. Right now, I'm using Matrix Biolage Ultra-Hydrating Balm. I don't know how I feel about it yet, but it has ingredients that are great for slip and hydration (Behentrimonium Chloride Glycerin, Cetrimonium Chloride, and Propylene Glycol, for example). I add EVOO and honey to it, which really has helped. I may pick up some vegetable glycerin and add to it as well. It does an OK job, but I think there's something out there that can make my hair softer. I've only used it like 4 times, so I need to give it a chance, at least three months. Anyway, once my hair is full of DT-soaked braids, I put my hair in a shower cap and sit under my hooded dryer for at least 30 minutes (my average is a solid 45). Then I rinse out in the shower.
I only use a protein DT every 6-8 weeks or so. It's really easy to make one! I blend 1-2 eggs with some EVOO, honey and plain yogurt (the regular kind, not the low- or non-fat). I apply it the same why I do my moisturizing DT and also sit under the dryer. I'll usually use conditioner to wash out the DT, just to get rid of the egg scent. I also won't wash this out in the shower, because I can't have food in my bathroom (it's just this thing about me...)

ACV Rinse: I close my cuticles after every wash with an ACV rinse. I take 1 part apple cider vinegar (ACV) to 8 parts cold water. After I rinse out my DT, I pour the ACV mixture onto my hair and rinse with cold water to close my cuticles. Closed cuticles prevent moisture from leaking out of your strand, and because vinegar is a weak acid, the ACV restores my scalp's pH balance.

Leave-in: I apply a non-protein leave-in to my hair after my ACV rinse. My fave right now is Elasta QP H-Two. My hair broke when I used Infusium-23, and when Deva One Conditioner didn't work as a DT, I tried it as a leave-in. It didn't work too well for me either. It turns out my hair prefers a watery leave-in, like the H-Two, a lot more than it likes creamy ones (Deva One is on the creamy side). After I apply the H-Two, I then put EVCO throughout my hair to seal moisture in.

Moisturize/Seal: I moisturize my hair every morning and evening with Hydratherma Naturals Moisturizing Growth Lotion. It has really great, all-natural ingredients, and I love the way it smells. I like to use it when my hair is in loose curls or when it's straightened (even though it's water-based, the Growth Lotion moisturizes my straight hair without causing it to revert!). When my hair is in smaller curls and I need more definition, I use Elasta QP Mango Butter Moisturizer. It really defines my curls, and the added moisture makes my hair feel great! I used to use Crisco to moisturize my hair, but there's no water in Crisco; my hair loves oil, but it really thrives on a water-based moisturizer. Once I moisturize my hair, of course I seal the moisture in with my EVCO. I used to use jojoba when I first started my regimen, but it was so heavy, and it didn't absorb into my skin, so it caused breakouts--not what's up. EVCO melts right into my skin and actually moisturizes it, so I don't have to worry if I get a little on my face.

Co-wash: On Sunday nights after I get off work, I co-wash my hair. I pre-poo for 20 minutes and then detangle/wash my hair with Hello Hydration conditioner only. Sunday is a great day for me to do this because I usually have Day 3 hair (hair that's maintained the same style for 3 days), and I can freshen up my style for work on Monday. Then that style last me all the way until Thursday, when I henna & wash. I only started co-washing about 3 weeks ago, and my hair LOVES the added moisture. I grew up thinking that I would dry my hair out if I washed it too often. Now that I think about it, I realize how counter-intuitive that thought process is. How can you dry out your hair by putting water in it?!?!

SO THERE YOU HAVE IT!

That wasn't really so bad. I really try not to do too much to my hair. Low manipulation of my strands has been helpful in maintaining growth and keeping my hair healthy. My goal is to stick to my regimen without fail until September 2009--then I'll have a good idea of what's not working, and I'll try something new.

If you already have a regimen, what's it like? What products do you absolutely love/hate?

Coming Soon: Consistency is Key

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ABCs of Hair Care [Build Your Regimen, Part 1]

Now that you have an idea what your hair needs, you can start building a regimen that will address those areas. A good natural hair regimen should contain the following:

Conditioner

Puts moisture back into the hair that is lost during the clarifying/shampooing process. Conditioner is also necessary for detangling! Natural feisties should never detangle our hair when it's dry. Instead, detangle your hair while wet in sections. Each section should be full of a slippery conditioner. Use your wide-tooth comb to gently comb the hair from the ends up to the root. Once that section is detangled, twist or braid it out of the way. Don't rinse the conditioner out until your whole head has been detangled in this manner! You'll lose far fewer strands this way, and retain lots more length!

Protein deep treatment (DT)

We spoke about the importance of protein in our last post. Our hair is made of protein, and needs protein in order to stay strong. Too much protein can be damaging, however, and can make your hair waaaay to hard, and therefore prone to breakage. I only use a protein DT when I feel like my hair needs to be strengthened. My hair is very sensitive to protein and can't really deal with a lot of it, but yours may be different.

Moisturizing deep treatment

My hair really craves moisture, and if you're a curly, kinky or wavy, then yours probably does too! A moisturizing DT should be applied under heat, for at least 20-30 minutes, and should be done at every wash. Some naturals use hot oil treatments as moisturizers. Others use regular conditioner and add moisturzing agents to it (water, vegetable glycerin, honey, shea butter). I've tried a couple of moisturizing DTs, but I'm still searching for one that leaves my hair really soft to the touch. I mix the one I use now with honey and EVOO for extra hydration. I'm really thinking about adding glycerin, but we'll see...

Leave-in

Apply a leave-in conditioner after your final rinse, and then don't wash it out. Leave-in conditioners give your hair more moisture, but can also be used to balance out your hair's natural pH (your hair/scalp prefer a slightly acidic environment and most shampoos/conditioners are slightly basic) or add protein for strength (Mane and Tail and Infusium-23 are examples).

Moisturizer

Ever morning when you wake up and every night before bed, please please PLEASE treat your tresses to a moisturizer! It should be water-based, and shouldn't contain mineral oil or petrolatum (which in most cases is counter-productive). Now there are exceptions to the mineral oil/petrolatum rule: Miss Jessie's products, which are a God-send for many natural curlies, do contain these products, but moisturize like nobody's business! My hair gets really dirty when it has mineral oil or petrolatum in it, so I don't use Miss Jessie's, but use whatever gives your hair the water it needs and keeps it from drying out! A lot of naturals opt to create mixes of water, glycerin, aloe vera, shea butter, and/or essential oils.

Sealant

After moisturizing your hair, you should seal it with oil. There are three oils that penetrate the hair shaft: coconut, avocado, and olive. But castor oil (which thickens hair) and jojoba oil (a plant wax that mimics sebum, the natural oil from our scalp) are also great sealants. After I seal my hair with extra virgin coconut oil, I also like to use whipped shea butter and seal only the very ends. Sealing your hair locks moisture in and keeps your hair from knotting, splitting and breaking.

Every regimen should contain the elements described above. The following are some strongly recommended products that you can add as well:

Pre-Poo

I love, love, LOVE TO pre-poo! Pre-pooing involves preparing your hair for the shampoo process. An hour or more before shampooing or clarifying, coat your hair in oil, and then wrap it in a shower cap or Saran wrap (I prefer Saran wrap). You can also do a scalp treatment at this time. If you're only doing it for an hour or so, you can use heat for a few minutes. I usually pre-poo the night before I wash and leave the oils (EVCO, EVOO, tea tree and peppermint) in overnight, so I choose not to sit under the dryer. Pre-pooing makes my hair SUPER SOFT, and keeps my hair from drying out too much when I shampoo it.

Clarifying Agent

Clarifying is removing all product buildup/oil from your hair, thus leaving it "squeaky clean." It is the first thing you do when you're about to wash your hair. Clarifying is important because product buildup can prevent your hair from receiving the effects of your DTs. Your clarifying agent can be a shampoo: one with sulfates (for monthly clarifying) or one without, which is more appropriate for weekly use. Many naturals tend to skip shampoo altogether, and instead no-poo or co-poo. They may use a dry shampoo to clean the roots, or substitute conditioner for shampoo. In these cases, adding baking soda to your non-sulfate shampoo or conditioner, or rinsing your hair with a mixture of baking soda and water, will also give the clarifying effect. Other naturals use apple cider vinegar (ACV) to clarify their strands (1 part ACV to 8 parts water). Clarifying treatments can be drying because they strip your hair of basically everything, so don't do them too often (once every 2-4 weeks should be fine), and don't forget to do a moisturizing DT!

Coming soon: Build Your Regimen, Part 2

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WEEKLY WORD

"CIRCUMSTANTIAL FAITH"

I love Marvin Sapp--Thirsty is definitely my fave gospel album to date, and my favorite song on the album is "Praise Him in Advance." On the intro to the song, Pastor Marvin makes a reference to "conditional praisers," those Christians who get real excited for the Lord when things work out for their good or when circumstances create a praiseworthy environment. I thought about "conditional praisers" today when I read a devotional on ourdailyjourney.org (check this place out! It's amazing....). The post was dated March 8, 2009 (the exact date of my 24th birthday, which I thought was telling) and spoke of people who follow the Lord based on circumstances. Just because things are working out in a certain way doesn't necessarily mean that God is moving things into that direction. I've really struggled with circumstantial faith, and I've learned that it's not the kind of faith that we need to please God (Hebrews 11:6).

True faith involves praying constantly and fervently to God and following His lead even/especially when things don't look like they're going to work out. It's much more difficult, but so much more rewarding. God has been encouraging me to continue fasting and praying into a certain situation, even though it doesn't look like it's going to work out for my good. This morning though, I received confirmation that God doesn't want me to fret--God wants me to trust Him, even though circumstances right now are pushing me to give up on God. When there aren't any immediate results, praying and fasting gets old! Last night I literaly threw in the towel and told God I wasn't going to do it anymore, and this morning, He gave me the confirmation I needed to keep going!

Even if this situation that I'm praying for doesn't work out the way I want, I'm excited that God is right here in the middle of it. For that reason alone, I can definitely praise Him in advance!

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ABCs of Hair Care [Assess Your Strands, Part 4]

PLANNING
We're almost done with the "A" of Hair Care! This final step in assessing your strands is planning. Have your hair out while you read this post so that you can refer to your actual strands. You need to know what your hair looks like before you can plan to care for it.

Split Ends
I hate hate hate split ends! Split ends are just that--areas on your hair strand that have begun to split into two or more parts. Look at your hair and see if you can spot any of the usual suspects:

The split areas are weaker than your full original strand, and so they break much more easily. If left on your hair for too long, split ends can travel up your hair shaft, which means fairly long pieces will eventually just break off. Split ends are the FASTEST way to lose length, and usually can't be repaired once they've been discovered. If you've found any, DON'T FRET! Simply take your trusty hair scissors and cut them off, at least 1/4" above the location of the split. The only way to get rid of an existing split end is to cut it off, especially before it starts traveling. If you have a head-full of split ends, then it's time for a good trim.

Heat Damage
Most of you curlies out there probably don't have this problem, but I most certainly did! When I started pressing my hair, I definitely used a hot comb (which is a terrible option), and a cheapie flat iron (another bad idea), never used a heat protectant (I know, I know), and I was using heat on my hair EVERY DAY to keep up that "bone straight" look. Sigh...

My hair was completely FRIED!

Heat damage...sucks. Between my split ends and heat damage, I ended up just cutting most of my hair off, and had a neck-length bob in April 2007. Protein and cholesterol treatments can repair some forms of heat damage, and so can using henna. Both protein and henna fill in gaps in your cuticle that heat damage can cause (it's the gaps in the cuticle that give your hair that fried, finger-in-socket appeal). If you have heat damage, you may want to incorporate these solutions into your regimen. Limit heat-styling to at most once a month, ALWAYS use a silicone-based heat protectant, and learn how to pin curl your hair so that you don't have to run to your flat iron for that morning "touch-up" (more on heat and heat-styling to come later...)

Dandruff
If your scalp is flaking, red, and/or irritated, itchy and uncomfortable, then you may very well have one of the many forms of dandruff. Believe it or not, I sufferred from dandruff for YEARS! I just assumed it was one of those things I just had to deal with. In middle school I used Selsun Blue, but that started turning my hair green. I greased my scalp, tried washing my hair weekly, and still nothing helped.

Not only is dandruff embarrassing, but it also suffocates the scalp, which stunts hair growth. Many of us were raised thinking that dirty hair was growing hair--WRONG! Usually the results we were seeing of our dirty hair growing was actually do to low-manipulation of our strands. A dirty scalp actually stifles hair growth, so even when your hair is in a protective style (i.e. braids or twists), don't forget to clean that scalp!

I stopped having dandruff when I stopped using products with mineral oil and petrolatum. These products, found in most items geared towards Afro-curly hair care, actually trap dirt and oil on our scalp, which in turn becomes food for fungus (one of the causes of dandruff). Instead of using hair oils or greases that come in jars and contain mostly mineral oil, petrolatum, and waxes, opt for natural hair oils for your scalp. Tea tree, peppermint, and rosemary oils are perfect for the scalp: tea tree (melaluca) is a natural anti fungal, peppermint soothes irritated skin, and rosemary stimulates hair growth! Add a few drops of each to a couple tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) and apply to your scalp every other day. Massage your scalp with the pads of your fingers (please don't scratch with your fingernails, because that damages your roots), and watch your scalp improve!

Of course, sometimes dandruff is more serious, and therefore needs professional attention. If you have psoriasis, eczema, or your dandruff doesn't quit after use of special shampoos or oil massages, contact a dermatologist.

DRY HAIR
This is where most of us have issues. Curly, kinky and wavy hair tends to be dry because the oil from our scalp has a tough time making it around the curves and bends in our hair. The oil from our scalp seals in our hair's natural moisture. When that oil can't get cover our entire strand, moisture is able to escape, which causes dryness. Our hair CRAVES moisture, and needs it in order to look healthy. If your hair lacks sheen and softness and is prone to breakage, then it's probably dry. A water-based moisturizer or leave-in is a great way to combat dryness. Just be sure to seal that moisture in which an oil (I absolutely LOVE extra virgin coconut oil). Put the moisturizer on first, then apply the oil. For extra protection, you can then put a hair butter just on the ends (shea butter or cocoa butter or even Crisco).

Please note: Oil is not a moisturizer. If your hair is dry and you put oil on it, you will have oily, dry hair. When you think moisture, think water. Anything that is water-based is going to be a great moisturizer. Once you've put that in your hair, then you can apply oil to keep that moisture inside your strands. My favorite moisturizers right now are Hydrotherma Naturals Growth Lotion (which is water-based, but doesn't cause my straightened hair to revert back to its curly state) and Elasta QP Mango Butter Moisturizer (great for curls!)

WEAK, BRITTLE HAIR
Hair that breaks when you breathe on it too hard is brittle hair. This can be due either to dryness, or a lack of protein. It was really difficult for me to tease out the causes of my dry, brittle hair. At first, I thought I needed protein, so every other week I would apply a protein DT (deep treatment) of 1 egg, some extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), honey and yogurt. I also used Infusium-23, which is a protein-containing leave-in. But that didn't solve my problem. I researched a little more and discovered that sometimes what seems like a protein deficiency is actually just a lack of moisture. So I cut protein out and began to use moisturizing products every morning and evening, and I deep conditioned my hair after every wash. Problem solved! No more brittle, shedding hair.

I discovered that my hair is "protein sensitive," which means I really don't need to use products that contain a lot of it. However, if your hair feels mushy and limp when wet, you may need protein. Some natural feisties can take more protein than others. J, our other contributor, had the same problem with brittle hair, and she gave herself an Aphogee treatment. In no time her curls were well-defined and her hair recovered its lustrous shine.

Experiment with protein and moisture, always alternating between the two treatments (so if you use a protein DT one wash, use a moisturizing DT the next), and try not to use a protein DT more than once a month, especially if there's already protein in your other products. Too much protein can make your hair hard. What you want is a balance between moisture and protein so that your hair is soft, shiny, and healthy!

Coming soon: Build Your Regimen

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ABCs of Hair Care [Assess Your Strands, Part 3]

PROTECT, PROTECT, PROTECT!

Because our natural hair has so much character, what with all its spirals and coils and curls and such, it is also super prone to BREAKAGE. Our hair is feisty, but also very delicate! I should know--if you look at my hair too hard, the ends snap off (sigh...) However, there are ways to protect our fragile strands from damage. These are the tools every curly girl should have in her arsenal to fight against breakage.

Wide-Tooth Comb
I absolutely refuse to comb my hair when it's dry. Instead, I detangle my hair when it's wet, very slowly and carefully, with a wide-tooth comb. My comb of choice: the Jilbere shower comb. It glides through my wet hair effortlessly (and I always comb going up, from ends to roots). I bought two of them at Sally's Beauty Supply (aka "my supplier")

Sally Beauty Supply, $1.59

Denman Brush

If you stalk (I mean appropriately visit) other natural hair blogs, then you've definitely heard of the Denman. I bought the D3 (because I'm a PJ, not because I needed it), and I haven't used it yet, but many other curlies swear by its detangling ability. If your hair doesn't normally like brushes, or can't handle a lot of manipulation, then try the comb first, and then give the Denman a try.

Sally Beauty Supply, $9.49

Silk/satin Bonnet
I saw the most immediate improvement in my hair once I started sleeping in a satin bonnet. Silk and satin don't absorb the moisture in your hair like cotton does. So no more tying your hair down with cotton bandannas! You can get satin bonnets and headwraps from any beauty supply store or even Walmart.

Walmart (prices vary)

Any random BSS (beauty supply store), $3-$4

Silk/satin Pillowcase

For extra protection, I also sleep on a silk/satin pillowcase. This reduces the friction on my hair as I toss and turn through the night, and less friction = less opportunity for breakage

Target, $24.99

Old T-shirt
Towel-drying your hair roughs up your strands, which are in their most vulnerable state when wet. When I was younger, I used to use a t-shirt to dry my hair because my father owned a screen printing business and we had tons of them around. Then recently I was at one of my fave blogs, Hairlicious Inc, and she had a great tutorial on how she uses a t-shirt to help dry her hair. I've never looked back! She has a relaxer, so the only thing we would do differently is keep the t-shirt on until our hair is just a little damp. That should only take about 5 minutes. You want to add a leave-in conditioner (first) and then oil (second) all over your hair when there's still water in it.

Nail File
Seems strange, huh? Well every natural Feisty needs to keep a nail file handy when she's doing her hair. Chipped and ragged nails can catch on our hair and snag it. Remember when we talked about how delicate our hair is? We don't have very many layers of protection (cuticle layers) on our natural hair. Our fingernails can damage our hair's cuticle layers, weakening our hair and creating opportunities for split ends. This would happen to me a lot, but it can totally be prevented! Your nails will be healthier and look a lot better too if you file them down when they get all ragged.

Hair Shears
Don't snip those ends with regular scissors! Invest in a good pair of hair shears. They have lots at Walmart by trusted brands like GOODY. Keep them in a place with your other hair care items, and don't use those scissors for anything else. The sharper your scissors, the less damage they'll cause to your hair. Ever tried to cut a rope with dull scissors? The rope frays and looks terrible. Your hair is just like a rope. A clean, straight cut will keep your cuticle layers close together.

Walmart, $6-$10 (all brands)

Ceramic/Ionic Blowdryer or Flat-iron
Let's face it: natural hair is about versatility. While too much heat can definitely damage your hair, part of the fun of having curls, kinks and waves is the option to trade them in (for a time). Invest in a good-quality blow dryer and flat iron. While this may be an expensive move, your hair will LOVE you for it. Ceramic heat-styling tools heat your hair from the inside out, which puts less stress on your outer cuticle, which is the oldest, and weakest part of your hair. Ionic appliances keep moisture in your hair by keeping your cuticle sealed while heat is being applied. Important: Buy a blow dryer with a "cool" setting. When you're done styling your hair with heat, blow your hair for a minute on cool to close your cuticle. The result: shiny, straight hair that's less prone to breakage.

Folica.com (I own it, I LOVE it!), $108.99

Sally's Beauty Supply (Also owned by yours truly), $69.99

Hooded Dryer

Conditioning treatments are so much more effective with heat. I sit underneath my dryer for at least 30 minutes whenever I have henna or deep conditioner in my hair. A hooded dryer is also great for drying roller sets because the heat isn't as harsh as what comes from your blow dryer.

I really like this dryer, $49

Coming soon: Assess Your Strands, Part 4 [Final]

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